Ageless Beauty: How Niacinamide Rewrites the Rules of Anti-Aging.

PriscillaNakirayi
5 min readJan 18, 2024

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A young woman is applying niacinamide cream to her face while staring at her reflection in the mirror
Photo credit : Sora Shimazaki

Age is just a number they say. But the mirror doesn’t seem to agree.

Do you know why?

As you age, you lose collagen, a protein that is responsible for the elasticity of your skin. This gradually leads to the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and normally starts in your mid-twenties.

Though you may be happy to live to see another year, this kind of reality can be quite disturbing.

But you know what the good news is?

Science is advancing and weaving your anti-aging dreams into tangible realities with ingredients such as niacinamide.

Curious about how this ingredient can help your skin defy the passage of time?

Let’s dive right in.

What is niacinamide in skincare?

“Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a powerful antioxidant derived from the vitamin B family. Its primary function in skin care is to improve moisture retention as it helps in cell repair and the production of ceramides, a lipid necessary for skin barrier function,” explains Aesthetic Nurse and Owner of Capital Aesthetics, Marina Sominsky.

“Ceramides are an essential building block in our skin, so increasing the production of these molecules can help prevent visible signs of ageing, such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles.” She adds.

Ahmed Chaudry, MD, Collaborating Dermatologist with Scandinavian Biolabs says that niacinamide “can be in the form of a serum, moisturizer or multi-tasking treatment product.”

What is the purpose of niacinamide serum?

You might be wondering why niacinamide has gained a lot of popularity in the skincare industry.

Well, research has proven that niacinamide serum has the ability to improve skin hydration, reduce hyperpigmentation and inflammation, treat acne, minimize pore appearance, help with anti-aging and protect the skin from environmental stressors like UV radiation.

Isn’t that exciting?

In this article, we focus on the anti-aging benefits of niacinamide and I don’t know about you but I would love to look like JLo by the time I am 50.

Well now that you know about the science-backed effectiveness of niacinamide, it’s time to answer a question that I know is already on your mind.

How do you use niacinamide serum?

“A basic skincare routine incorporating niacinamide for anti-aging could consist of a gentle cleanser, followed by a niacinamide serum or moisturizer, and finished with a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day,” says Andrei Gherghina, DO, MS board-certified dermatologist and Co-founder of Oceans Dermatology.

Oh, and I should mention niacinamide’s unique ability to work with other ingredients to deliver maximum results.

You can combine it with retinol and hyaluronic acid to enhance its anti-aging capability.

“Retinol is effective for improving collagen production and reducing wrinkles, while hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps the skin.” Dr. Gherghina confirms.

“Niacinamide complements these ingredients by improving the skin’s overall health and reducing inflammation,” he adds.

Dr. Gherghina also states that you can combine niacinamide with vitamin C for brightening and evening out your skin tone.

Now there are many brands on the market that sell niacinamide-infused products.

But let me ask you a question.

Do you know how to choose a high-quality niacinamide product?

If your answer is no, then you need to consider Dr. Gherghina’s advice.

“To ensure a high-quality niacinamide product, individuals should look for labels that indicate the concentration of niacinamide — 2–5%,” he explains.

“Absence of potential irritants like fragrances or alcohol, and preferably from reputable brands that produce products that are safe and high quality,” he adds.

Who can use niacinamide serum?

You might have had some terrible experiences in the past with some skincare products. But the good news is that niacinamide benefits all skin types.

“For oily skin, lightweight serums or gels are recommended. For dry skin types, I recommend moisturizers or creams containing niacinamide.” Dr. Gherghina explains.

“Sensitive skin types should choose fragrance-free products since they have fewer potential irritants which fragrances often carry,” he adds.

Just like any other skincare product, niacinamide has potential side effects and it is important to know them before you apply it to your skin.

“Potential side effects are minimal but can include temporary warmth, flushing, tingling, or redness right after application” Dr. Chaudry comments.

It is always important to patch test first before fully applying it to your skin.

“You should avoid using niacinamide with strong exfoliating acids such as AHAs and BHAs. If you want to exfoliate with these products every so often, avoid using other active ingredients that day.” Sominsky cautions.

When using niacinamide to combat the signs of aging, you must follow these two guidelines.

First, you must be consistent.

“Consistency is key, so you want to work it into your morning and evening skincare routine,” Sominsky says.

Second, be patient. You’ll begin to notice results with time.

“It can take anywhere from a couple of weeks up to a month to three months to see visible results, depending on the skin type and concern,” Sominsky adds.

In the efforts to prove that niacinamide can truly rewind the aging clock, I had to ask Dr. Gherghina for a success story with one of his patients.

“I recently had a 44-year-old female patient that was noticing that her face was slowly aging despite using several quality facial products on a regular basis, and needed a boost in her daily facial regimen,” he reveals.

“After three months of usage, she noticed significant improvement in her skin texture, reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and a more even skin tone and was very pleased with her results.” he further explains.

If you aren’t sure about which brand to use, you could benefit from a few that are recommended by an expert.

EltaMD

Product: Niacinamide Moisturizer

Usage: Ideal for both morning and evening, suitable for regular and dry skin

“ I recommend using a moisturizer such as this one from EltaMD which has niacinamide as the primary ingredient. It can be used in the morning and evening after cleansing and is an excellent option for both regular and dry skin.” Sominsky says.

Alumier MD

Product: HydraBoost Serum

Usage: Apply after cleansing and before moisturizing daily for optimal results.

“If you want to incorporate niacinamide separately from your moisturizer, I recommend the HydraBoost Serum from Alumier MD.” Sominsky states.

“This product can be applied after cleansing and before moisturizing daily for best results. It also contains other tripeptides, such as Synthe’6, which help to brighten the skin,” she explains.

There are potential long-term benefits of using niacinamide beyond just addressing visible signs of aging.

“Long-term benefits may include improved skin elasticity, stronger skin barrier function, increased hydration and collagen production for an overall younger, healthier-looking complexion.” Dr. Chaudry explains.

Over to you.

Are you ready to include niacinamide in your anti-aging arsenal? Which brands have recently caught your attention?

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PriscillaNakirayi
PriscillaNakirayi

Written by PriscillaNakirayi

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